The History and Evolution of Barefoot Shoes (Timeline)

How Barefoot Shoes Evolved (Timeline)

• about 30,000 years ago - the first evidence of footwear, probably similar to today's barefoot shoes, was primarily to protect the soles from injury; the earliest archaeological remains of footwear, however, date back to about 10,000 years ago;
• early 19th century - the first types of special athletic shoes appear;
• 1832 - leather shoes began to be made with rubber soles for better durability;
• 1868 - the beginning of the use of vulcanised rubber, which was softer and more flexible;
• 1895 - J. W. Foster and Sons (now Reebok) began producing athletic shoes with spikes under the toe (similar to today's cleats), which became the first running shoe;
• 1916 - The first rubber-soled canvas shoes apeared(called Keds), also “sneakers" because they were quieter;
• 1926 - Adolf Dassler began producing custom-made sports shoes with specific designs depending on the purpose; the success of these shoes led to the founding of Adidas;
• 1960 - The idea of modern barefoot running emerged; Ethiopian runner Abebe Bikila won Olympic gold in the marathon, which he ran barefoot;
• 1964 - The first running shoes with a cushioned heel were produced in Japan;
• 1972 - Nike is founded; cushioned running shoes become a worldwide hit; running as a sport suitable for amateurs gains unprecedented popularity;
• 2004 - Nike Free, one of the first barefoot shoes, is created;
• 2006 - introduction of Vibram Five Fingers, probably the most famous type of barefoot shoes in the world, one of the few durable enough for running;
• 2008 - barefoot footwear becomes a separate category of footwear;
• 2009 - the book Born to Run is published, popularizing barefoot running;
• 2011 - the most successful year yet for barefoot shoes in terms of sales; however, at the same time, the first injuries caused by barefoot shoes were recorded;
• 2012 - Vibram brand lost a false advertising lawsuit regarding Five Fingers model;
• mid-2010 - the great popularity of barefoot footwear began to stagnate, especially in running circles; currently, the pros and cons of minimalist footwear are the subject of quite a bit of debate;
• 2017 and present - more companies specializing exclusively in barefoot footwear begin gaining traction in the global market, primarily due to offering a wider range of products beyond sports shoes, including casual, formal, and outdoor options.

The First Steps

Barefoot or minimalist footwear is definitely not a new concept. On the contrary, it could be said that shoes as we know them today have only been part of human history for a relatively short period of time in terms of evolution.

Our ancestors probably walked and ran barefoot or with only minimal foot protection until about 10,000 years ago, when the earliest surviving material evidence of the existence of more sophisticated footwear appeared. These were probably a type of leather sandals with a harder sole made of wood or bark, and as such they served primarily to protect the foot from the rigours of the terrain and provided very little support for the foot itself. Today's barefoot shoes operate on a similar principle (Davis, p. 775).

Since the human foot has evolved to walk and run barefoot for most of our existence, proponents of barefoot footwear argue that this type of movement is the most natural for humans.

The foot has:

• the most flexibility when walking barefoot,
• the most natural shape,
• and the most natural support of muscles that often weaken when wearing shoes.

At this point, it is also important to note that shoes that allow for the most natural and efficient movement have only begun to be produced within the last two hundred years, so these arguments may have some weight, although the results of scientific studies are currently inconsistent in this area (Davis, pp. 775-784; Francis & Schofield, pp. 1-8; Kaplan, pp. 1-6; Lieberman, pp. 63-72)

The Birth of Athletic Shoes and Material Advancements in 19th Century

It was not until the 19th century that a major breakthrough was made in the development of footwear. Until then, shoes had been considered only as surface protection for the foot, or as a fashion accessory, and not much attention had been paid to how they affected movement.

But with the 19th century came several changes. Industrialisation meant that shoes were quicker, easier and less expensive to make. This period also saw the popularisation of sport as a suitable leisure activity for almost all social classes, creating a market for specially designed sports shoes.

In this period, manufacturers mainly focused on creating the most durable shoes that could survive more physical activity, as well as types of shoes that would make it easier to move around in different terrains.

In the first half of the century, rubber-soled shoes appeared, which were much more durable than leather, although they were harder and less pliable, not supporting great movement range. This was solved by the use of vulcanised rubber in the 1860s.

The Rise of Sports Footwear in Early 20th Century

At the beginning of the 20th century, cloth began to be used instead of leather to make shoes, which was both cheaper and slightly more comfortable. Fabric shoes (called sneakers) allowed greater freedom of movement and therefore quickly became the default option for sports, both amateur and elite.

However, it wasn't until almost half a century later that true running or sports shoes came into existence.

Modern Running Shoes and the Barefoot Movement Take Shape in 1960s

In the 1960s, shoes with cushioning under the heel (sometimes also with additional padding under the front of the foot) were developed to protect against injuries to the skeleton of the leg and the Achilles tendon, probably the most common injuries for runners. In addition, these shoes also had a reinforced ankle area, which protected against sprains and dislocations.

Although these shoes originated in Japan, it was not until they were later manufactured by the American brand Nike (founded in 1972 on the foundations of the original Blue Ribbon Sports brand) that they became a worldwide sensation. Some authors believe that the creation of these running shoes sparked an increased interest in running, which is probably the most popular and widely practiced sport in the world to this day.

Interestingly, the barefoot movement developed almost in parallel with the emergence of athletic footwear. The idea of barefoot running was popularised, one could also say re-popularised, in 1960 at the London Olympics by the Ethiopian marathon runner Abebe Bikila.  

Bikila just before the start of the race found out that the manufacturer did not have shoes in his size and therefore decided to run barefoot. He then won the gold medal and broke his personal best by a few minutes. This prompted a debate about the benefits of running barefoot. The movement, however, had to wait for another fifty years for its true day in the sun (Davis, pp. 775-779; Kaplan, pp. 1-2; Sommarvong, pp. 1-31; Lieberman et al., pp. 65-66; Francis & Schofield, pp. 1-2).

During this period, athletic footwear evolved towards even greater support and cushioning, even though, according to Kaplan (pp. 1-2), there is very little conclusive scientific evidence supporting the positive effects of this type of shoe.

At the same time, this period also saw an increase in injuries in the foot and knee area in runners, which proponents of barefoot and minimalist running attribute specifically to the unnatural deformities of the foot caused by athletic footwear, as well as the weakening of the muscles due to over-support.

The Barefoot Revolution Gains Momentum in 2000s

Although the barefoot movement has never been fully mainstream, researchers have been interested in its results since its beginnings.

Several studies on running injuries were published as early as the 1970s, but a comprehensive comparison of the effects of conventional and barefoot running did not occur until later. At the end of the last century, Nike allegedly commissioned a study on the best prevention of running injuries, which to some extent supported the theory of the adverse effect of too much foot support on the development of injuries.

The result was the Nike Free shoe line, which was first launched in 2004. This range included several types of minimalist footwear with varying degrees of foot support. They were characterized by great flexibility, simple design and minimal support in the ankle area.

A year later, the Italian brand Vibram introduced its signature Vibram Five Fingers model, which was marketed as a slightly more reinforced sock. This model is known for its rather peculiar design, mimicking the shape of the foot with separate compartments for each toe (Davis, pp. 775-779; Lieberman et al., pp. 65-66).

The real revolution that put the barefoot movement on the map, so to speak, was probably only brought about by the publication of Christopher McDougall's book Born to Run in 2009. In it, McDougall explored the "forgotten" Tarahumara tribe of North American Indians (also called the Rarámuri - i.e., the Running People).

Members of this tribe are indeed endurance runners; according to the author, they can run long distances for long stretches of time, even for 48 hours straight, wearing only simple leather sandals. The author argues that this footwear is a secret behind their endurance and barefoot footwear advocates has been using his book as an evidence for their claims of minimalist shoes benefits ever since its publication (Sommervong, pp. 9-10; Davis, pp. 778-779; Francis & Schofield, p. 2).

The approximately next five years after the book's publication saw an unusually high level of interest in barefoot footwear, which several researchers attribute directly to McDougall and his "barefoot bible."

According to an analysis done by S. V.  Sommarvong (pp. 10-31), immediately following the release of Born to Run, profits from barefoot shoe sales increased nearly fivefold. This increase in interest was of course felt most keenly by the two largest manufacturers - Nike and Vibram - but during this period barefoot shoes from other brands also began to appear on the market, which, according to Sommarvong, may have led to the statistically slowly declining profits of the two leading brands that can be observed in mid-2010s.

This unexpected boom has caused the revival of the debate about the advisability and health implications of wearing minimalist footwear, with the results of studies usually not clearly leaning to either side.

Barefoot shoes were originally presented as a 'healthier' alternative to traditional footwear, which puts less strain on the musculoskeletal system and supports natural biomechanisms of the body. However, current data suggests that while minimalist footwear addresses some of the problems of traditional footwear, it also comes with several risks on its own.

Perhaps contributing to the decline in popularity of barefoot shoes is the fact that in 2011 the first injuries demonstrably caused by running in barefoot shoes were reported. Moreover, only the year later, Vibram lost the quite highly medialised false advertising lawsuit regarding their Five Finger shoe model. They had originally claimed that their footwear “strengthen muscles and prevent injury”, the claim that wasn’t conclusively proven to be true (Davis, 777-779; Sommervong, 1-31; Francis & Schofield, 1-2).

Minimalist Footwear Is Here to Stay and Will Continue to Grow and Evolve

Despite this, minimalist footwear still has a relatively large following and the base of the movement is growing each year, although perhaps more slowly than originally anticipated. Over the last decade, profits from minimalist footwear sales have been steadily increasing each year, and a similar trend is predicted for the next few years. Over the next five years, profits from barefoot shoe sales are expected to increase by about 5% (EinPressWire; Research and Markets).

In recent years, a growing number of companies have emerged that focus exclusively on barefoot footwear. Brands like Vivobarefoot, Xero Shoes, Be Lenka are examples of companies whose entire product lines are dedicated to minimalist designs. Unlike major athletic brands that only include a minimalist range alongside their traditional offerings, these companies specialize in creating footwear that adheres strictly to barefoot principles—such as wide toe boxes, zero-drop soles, and flexible materials.

These specialized brands have cultivated a loyal customer base by emphasizing quality, sustainability, while promoting natural movement. Many of them have also embraced eco-friendly practices, such as using recycled or biodegradable materials, which align with growing consumer interest in sustainability. This focus on environmental responsibility, combined with innovative designs, has allowed barefoot-specific brands to carve out a distinct niche in the broader footwear market.

In addition, the use of this type of footwear is no longer limited to running or walking, but users also enjoy using them, for example, when working out, as the use of these shoes activates more muscle groups. Thus, exercising in barefoot or minimalist shoes is probably slightly more effective (Sommervong, pp. 30-31).

Many of barefoot-specialized companies also offer barefoot options for formal settings, outdoor adventures, and even children's footwear, further expanding their market reach.

Sources

Davis, I. S. (2014). The Re-emergence of the Minimal Running Shoe. Journal of Orthopaedic & Sports Physical Therapy, 44, 10, pp. 775-784. 

EinPressWire (2024). Barefoot Shoes Market Growth, Trends, Share, Industry Analysis and Forecast - 2031. 

Francis P. & Schofield G. (2021). From barefoot hunter gathering to shod pavement pounding. Where to from here? A narrative review. BMJ Open Sport and Exercise Medicine, 6, 1, pp. 1-9. 

Kaplan, Y. (2014). Barefoot Versus Shoe Running: From the Past to the Present. Physician and Sportsmedicine, 42,1, pp. 1-6. 

Lieberman, D. E. (2012). What we can learn about running from barefoot running: An evolutionary medical perspective. Exercise and Sport Sciences Reviews, 40, 2, pp. 63-72. 

Lieberman, D. E. et al. (2014). Introduction: The past, present, and future of research on running barefoot and in minimal shoes. Journal of Sport and Health Science, 3, pp. 65-66. 

Research and Markets (2024). Barefoot Shoes Market by Product Type, Material Type, Price Range, Sales Channel, Usage - Global Forecast 2025-2030. 

Sommervong, S. V. (2015). An Investigation of the Evolution of the Minimalist Shoe Through a Review of Research Literature: A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Honors in the Major Program in Sport and Exercise Science in the College of Education and Human Performance and in the Burnett Honors College at the University of Central Florida. Orlando, Florida.